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麦基诺岛——时光倒流七十年 Somewhere in Time - Mackinac Island

  时光穿梭类的爱情电影很多,《时光倒流七十年》(Somewhere in Time, 1980)就是个中经典。凄美的爱情故事、俊男美女的组合,加上唯美的画面和动听的主题曲(本文配乐),不知触动了多少男女的心。如果你也想体验时光倒流的感觉,不妨到美国密歇根州的麦基诺岛走走——那里保留着古老的建筑,一草一木都和一百年前一样,生活节奏也与外界截然不同。最不能错过的当属岛上的大饭店——《时光倒流七十年》中很多场景就是在那里拍摄的哦! 

  Calling for a taxi can be a gamble. You never know who will show up. Yet for all the strange taxi rides in my past, nothing can top the cabs on Mackinac Island, Michigan. When you call for a taxi here, a horse-drawn carriage shows up at your door.  
  Call me crazy, but this is not the type of cab I’m used to. Still, I’m 1)intrigued as my family and I crawl up onto the wooden seats behind the driver. She moves the 2)reins slightly,  and a pair of 1,800-pound Belgians respond, bringing new  meaning to the term “horse power.”  
  Within seconds I begin to relax, 3)soaking in the slow-paced nature of Mackinac Island. Sure, the modes of transport are unusual here, but then again, there is nothing usual about Mackinac Island.  
  4)Accessible only by boat or plane, the island lives by its own rules. Automobiles have been banned on the island since 1898, so people get around by bike, horse and 5)buggy, or on foot. The result is that no one rushes anywhere, and the island moves on its own time. 
  Only 600 people live here year round. The winter months can be cold and cruel. Freezing winds 6)whip across the Great Lakes注1. When the water freezes, supplies can be brought in only by air.  

Mackinac Island  叫计程车也可以是一次冒险,因为你永远不知道谁会出现在你面前。然而相较于我过去经历过的所有古怪的计程车之旅来说,没有什么比位于(美国)密歇根州麦基诺岛上的计程车更奇特的了。在这里,当你叫了计程车,出现在门口的将是一架马车。 

  But each May, the island transforms into a 7)lush, green world. Mackinac is covered in tree-sized 8)lilacs, many of them more than a century old. The sweet scent of their blooms 9)mingles with the earthy smell of horses and the ever-present 10)aroma of 11)fudge.  
  Fudge is the island’s only export. The tradition started with one shop back in the 1920s. Now some 17 candy shops create these sugary treats.  
  With such an 12)idyllic nature, one could easily forget the island’s war-ridden past. Once home to the Great Lakes  American Indians, Mackinac Island has seen its share of soldiers. During the American Revolution, the British moved their 13)garrison to Mackinac Island. With its steep hills, the island offered a perfect location for their fort.  
  But their strategy was short-lived, and Mackinac Island became the territory of the new American nation. When war broke out again in 1812, the British recaptured Fort Mackinac and more struggle 14)ensued. American peace negotiators finally secured the island’s return after the war.  
  Today, historic Fort Mackinac is all that remains of those bloody times, and the fort’s high location provides a beautiful view of the bay and town below.  


  Besides Fort Mackinac, the island is famous for the Grand Hotel. Built in 1887 during the Gilded Age注2, the Grand Hotel was a popular destination for that era’s rich and famous.  
  They arrived by lake steamer from Detroit, Montreal and Chicago, and dined on the finest 15)cuisine, danced to top musicians, and played 16)croquet in fashionable hats on the lawn.  
  And it’s easy to see what drew them. The luxury 385-room hotel stretches so far 17)from end to end that it’s hard to fit into one photograph. A 600-foot-long front 18)porch is lined with white rocking chairs and some 2,500 19)geraniums in 260 flower boxes.  
  We can’t help but be awed as our carriage pulls up to the hotel’s red-carpeted entrance. A doorman helps us from the coach, and I feel like I’ve stepped into the 19th century.  
  The lobby is tall, decorated with fine antiques from yesteryear. Indeed, the whole scene is familiar to me. The 1980 romantic film Somewhere in Time was filmed at the Grand Hotel.  
  Yet the Grand Hotel was no fake film set; the historic hotel has held on to her grace and 20)elegance from years gone by. The hotel experience includes dressing for dinner, and evening wear is required after 6 p.m. This is a foreign concept to my three 21st-century children, and they complain as they straighten newly-purchased ties and 21)pull on fancy dresses.  
  My eight-year-old son looks uncomfortable as we walk into the grand dining room. Yet his awkwardness is soon forgotten when we begin our five-22)course dinner, served by waiters wearing 23)tuxedos.  
  After dinner, we head to the ballroom, where we dance to the tunes that entertained those of the early 20th century.  

Grand Hotel Mackinac Island  除了麦基诺要塞,小岛上的大饭店也十分有名。酒店建于镀金时代的1887年,极受当时富人和名流的追捧。 

  The Grand Hotel is a comfortable place to stay. No room is alike, but each reflects the warm colors of the 24)flower beds that fill the hotel gardens. More than a ton of 25)bulbs and 125,000 bedding plants are used to create the gardens each year. Such gardens are usually 26)reserved for kings and queens, but here they are a part of everyday life, as they have been for more than a century.  
  Mackinac Island is an easy place for families to explore. Flat roads and no automobiles make it perfect for biking. The summer morning air is filled with the scent of 27)damp earth as we 28)pedal through the forest and out onto the streets of Mackinac Island the next day. Watching for the occasional horse and carriage, we soar up and down the streets, stopping to look in small shops or at historic buildings.  
  But we really gather speed when we head our bikes onto the 8-mile loop that encircles the island. At first the path follows the lake front. The water calls, and we soon 29)pull over to skip the perfectly smooth white stones that line the beach. 
  From there, we head into Mackinac Island State Park, with 1,800 acres to explore and 70 miles of natural and paved trails. I admire the wildflowers, 30)cedars and 31)birches that fill the forests.  
  But our kids find a little roadside stand that sells fried 32)pickles served with ranch 33)dip. It sounds 34)disgusting, but I give it a try. Not bad, I admit. The kids 35)devour them, proclaiming the pickles the best find of our bike outing.  
  As we head our bikes back onto the trail, I can’t help but 36)chuckle. Children experience new places through their own unique eyes. While my husband and I ooh and aah over fascinating history, luxurious 37)accommodations and fine dining, the kids will remember skipping smooth white stones, pedaling fast along the lake, and eating fried pickles in the forest.  
  Such are the family treasures to be found on Mackinac Island. For all of us, the island is a memory 38)in the making.  


  注1:北美洲五大湖是位于加拿大与美国交界处的五个大型淡水湖泊,分别是苏必利尔湖(Lake Superior)、休伦湖(Lake Huron)、密歇根湖(Lake Michigan)、伊利湖(Lake Erie)和安大略湖(Lake Ontario)。除密歇根湖全属于美国之外,其它四湖为加拿大和美国共有。 
  注2:1873年,马克·吐温与C·D·华纳(Charles Dudley Warner)共同创作了《镀金时代》(The Gilded Age: A Tale of Today)。从此,人们用这个词来形容从南北战争结束到20世纪初的那一段美国历史。南北战争为美国资本主义发展扫清了道路,加上不断涌入的移民和西部新发现的矿藏,使美国的工业化极速发展,国家财富迅速增长。