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从悉尼到伦敦:骑车走天涯 Riding Dorothy from Sydney to London(2)

唯一的问题就是缅甸。骑着摩托车穿越缅甸是不可能的,这就意味着你要么得绕道而行,骑车北上穿过中国,要么得乘坐飞机从缅甸上空飞过。出人意料的是,第二种选择反倒更便宜些。于是,我们从曼谷飞到了尼泊尔的首都加德满都。尼泊尔并不是我钟爱的国家,但是在那里,我能看到地平线上拔地而起的珠穆朗玛峰。它被冰雪和岩石覆盖,令人心醉神迷。

  Then down to India. Riding in India is like being on the dodgems13), everyone aiming for you, lorries, trucks, cows, bikes, and everything is a threat. Roasting hot too, almost fifty degrees. Pakistan surprised me because it was so very different to India, the people more respectful of personal space, and friendlier. Truth is you have to be prepared for the worst or else you'd never cross the border. On a campsite in Islamabad I was guarded by soldiers with machine guns, armed police give me escorts14) on the road.
  接着我们南下来到了印度。在印度骑摩托就像在坐碰碰车,每一个人都横冲直撞,不论他们是开着卡车、货车,还是赶着牛车、骑着自行车,总之任何东西都有可能构成威胁。而且那里酷热难耐,气温几乎可达50摄氏度。与印度相比,巴基斯坦却大不相同,这让我感到很意外。这里的人们更尊重私人空间,也更为友善。不过有一点倒是真的,那就是你得做好最坏的打算,否则你将永远无法通过边境线。在首都伊斯兰堡的一处宿营地,就曾有士兵手持机关枪“守卫”着我,还有武警为我“保驾护航”。

  The road from Pakistan takes you over the Himalayas, along the Karakorum Highway, peaking at almost 5000 meters. That's great altitude for man and machine but somehow Dot made it, climbing up the steep hills in first gear for hours on end15), in the snow, in the freezing cold, with a banging headache. Until we hit the top and freewheeled16) down into China, the soldiers checking my laptop, insisting I rode with a guide. Sadly I was only there 7 days but I'd like to go back and see more of China. The people are lovely, the food great, and it still feels largely untouched.
  离开巴基斯坦以后,我们沿着最高海拔近五千米的喀喇昆仑公路翻越喜马拉雅山。这个高度对人和对机器而言都是极大的挑战,然而小多却做到了。在漫天飞雪之中,虽然砰砰作响,她却还能坚持到底,连续数小时用第一档挣扎着爬上陡峭的山崖,直至顶峰,接着靠惯性滑行,驶入中国。边境士兵检查了我的笔记本电脑,并坚持让一名向导与我随行。遗憾的是,我只在中国停留了七天。不过,我很愿意再次回到中国,以便对它有更多的了解。中国的人们很可爱,食物也很美味,而且我感到那里的大部分地方仍然是未经破坏的土地。

  Kirghizia, the country sits below Kazakhstan and is an incredibly pretty place. Nomads17) live in tents in the wilderness; there are beautiful lakes and a growing tourist industry. If you want somewhere off the beaten track18), to hike, to explore, go there. In Bishkek, the capital, stay at Sabrybeck's Guesthouse. It's got a kitchen table around which backpackers from all over the world sit and drink tea while sharing their stories.
  吉尔吉斯斯坦位于哈萨克斯坦的南部,是一个非常美丽的国度。游牧民族居住在荒原里搭的帐篷中,那里有秀美的湖泊和日益繁荣的旅游业。如果你想要去人迹罕至的某个地方远足或者探险,就去吉尔吉斯斯坦吧。如果来到首都比什凯克,就在萨布里贝克的家庭旅馆下榻吧。那里有一张餐桌,来自世界各地的背包客都会围桌而坐,饮着茶水,分享各自的故事。

  It had taken me eight months and 19,000 miles to get this far. Man and machine were both knackered19): she was leaking oil, and I was worn out. But we were on the final push. We had ridden across the world at 40mph, seen some amazing countries, and met some amazing people; now the horrible realisation that it was all about to come to an end. Through Russia and Ukraine and Poland, I was riding at a terrific pace, not showering or changing clothes for weeks on end. Just riding for the love of it. Then the EU, and the German autobahn20). Just surviving, hanging on21) in there, sleeping by the roadside in bushes and a tent with a missing pole.
  到达吉尔吉斯斯坦时,八个月已经匆匆飞逝,而我们也已经走了1.9万英里,车困人乏:她开始漏油,而我也已疲惫不堪。但我们仍然在做最后的冲刺。我们曾以每小时40英里的速度穿越世界,曾到过一些神奇的国家,也曾遇见过一些神奇的人。现在旅程就要结束了,意识到这一点让我感到有些惶恐不安。接下来我们又以可怕的速度穿越了俄罗斯、乌克兰和波兰,整个过程中我连续几周都没有洗澡换衣。只因喜爱,所以骑车不断前行。然后便是欧盟和德国高速公路。尽管只能停在路边灌木丛中,睡在少了一根支架的帐篷里,但我们却依然健在,从未放弃。

  But I and Dot had made it; we'd ridden across the world in nine months and 23,000 miles. And we were pooped22). Now to get a job!
  即便如此,我和小多最终还是成功了。我们用九个月的时间贯穿了世界各地,完成了长达2.3万英里的行程。我们真的精疲力竭了。现在,该找份工作了!

  1. uni [5ju:nI] <口> 大学 [university的简称]
  2. contemplate [5kCntempleIt] vt. 思忖,思量
  3. expire [Ik5spaIE(r), ek-] vi. (期限)终止
  4. documentation [7dCkjumen5teIFEn] n. 文件证据的提供(或使用、备办)
  5. fiddly [5fIdlI] adj. 累人的;费时的
  6. outback [5aut5bAk] n. [the outback或the Outback] (尤指澳大利亚的)内地
  7. Dot: 作者对Dorothy的昵称
  8. high-top: 高帮鞋,鞋帮高至脚踝,一般是篮球运动鞋。
  9. hassle [5hAsl] vt. (不断)打扰;使烦恼
  10. banana boat: 香蕉船,被牵引前行的香蕉形气垫船,主要供娱乐用。
  11. flat out: 竭尽全力;用全速
  12. phad thai: 泰式炒面
  13. dodgem [5dCdVEm] n. 碰碰车(亦作dodgem car)
  14. escort [es5kC:t] n. 护卫队;护送者
  15. on end: 连续地
  16. freewheel [5fri:5hwi:l] vi. (骑自行车或开汽车时)靠惯性滑行
  17. nomad [5nCmEd, 5nEumAd] n. 游牧部落一员
  18. off the beaten track: 去的人不多的,鲜有人涉足的
  19. knackered [5nAkEd] adj. <英俚> 筋疲力尽的
  20. autobahn [5C:tEubB:n] n. (德国的)高速公路
  21. hang on: 坚持,不放弃
  22. pooped [pu:pt] adj. <俚> 疲乏的,筋疲力尽的

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