1)Ian Fleming's 2)Jamaica “潜入”伊恩·弗莱明的牙买加
The first law for a secret agent is to get his geography right,” Ian Fleming wrote in 3)The Man with the Golden Gun. And so it is for anyone following the trail of the man who created the world’s most famous secret agent through his adopted island of Jamaica, a journey that starts near Kingston on the tiny 4)spit of beach called the Palisadoes that connects the city to Norman Manley International Airport. Only five miles from the airport, you are already deep into Ian Fleming’s Jamaica.
The island was Fleming’s retreat, artist 5)colony and passion, and he repeatedly sent Bond on assignment there. The legendary spy experienced the island as Fleming did—beautiful and underdeveloped with enough exoticism, history and potential for danger to justify it as a 6)backdrop for postwar 7)espionage adventure.
Fleming’s Jamaica is a 8)Venn diagram of three 9)overlapping spheres: the author’s actual Jamaica of the 1950s and early ’60s (when the island was a British colony rapidly becoming a hot spot for the rich and famous); the semi-fictional Jamaica as seen through James Bond; and Jamaica as a 10)location for the 007 film 11)franchise.
In 1947 Fleming wrote a portrait of his adopted home in 12)Horizon magazine, influential enough to fuel a postwar tourist 13)boomlet among 14)well-heeled Britons and Americans. “I have examined a large part of the world,” he wrote. “After looking at all these, I spent four days in Jamaica in July 1943. July is the beginning of the hot season and it rained everyday at noon, yet I swore that if I survived the contest I would go back to Jamaica, buy a piece of land, build a house and live in it as much as my job would allow.” He did just that, as foreign manager for 15)Kemsley Newspapers.
The Palisadoes at night is still as Fleming described it in 16)Dr. No, a “long 17)cactus-18)fringed road” with “the steady 19)zing of the crickets, the rush of warm, scented air ... the necklace of yellow lights shimmering across the harbor.”
When Fleming made his first visit to the island 65 years to the month when I was there, he chose to stay in the cooler 20)climes of the 21)Blue Mountains. I followed his lead that evening and took the B1 road, which curls itself up into the mountains. My destination was Strawberry Hill, an 18th-century coffee plantation turned resort owned by Chris Blackwell, the founder of Island Records. Over a breakfast of 22)scrambled eggs and Blue Mountain coffee (the same morning 23)fare Fleming preferred and Bond nearly always enjoyed) on the balcony of a private 24)bungalow, guests overlook the same 25)vista Bond did in 26)Live and Let Die, where he “had his breakfast on the 27)veranda and gazed down on the sunlit panorama of Kingston.”
Most of Fleming’s days in Jamaica, though, were spent on the northern coast, best reached by the Junction Road “that runs across the thin waist of Jamaica.” Bond and his local 28)sidekick Quarrel, travel the same route in Live and Let Die to get to the secret island 29)lair of the 30)villainous genius Mr. Big. The mountainous interior of the island, “like the central ridges of a crocodile’s 31)armour” as Fleming put it in Live and Let Die, is a constant pull on the steering wheel, back and forth, through little villages, past cliffside 32)sundries shops and on numerous 33)detours into 34)rutted, gravel-spattered dirt roads. It’s a relief to reach the other side and spill into the 35)ramshackle town of Port Maria, its 36)pristine 37)aquiline bay 38)punctuated by the39)diminutive and uninhabited Cabarita Island, which inspired Surprise Island, the fictional hideout of Mr. Big.
Fleming’s 40)haven was Goldeneye, named for a wartime 41)operation he was involved in, and now one of the most exclusive resorts on the island. Situated in the small town of Oracabessa, once a banana port, Goldeneye is an 42)unassuming patch of land with stone paths and trees planted by former famous guests. Handwritten signs mark the mango planted by 43)Pierce Brosnan, the lime tree by 44)Harrison Ford, the royal palms by the Clintons. Set among them are three villas that, with Fleming’s original house and a restaurant overlooking the ocean, make up the current property. Where the restaurant sits, a 45)gazebo once stood. Fleming liked to take notes in it.
Goldeneye is the 46)mecca of any Fleming 47)pilgrimage, but not the heart of it. In Horizon, he wrote about the other elements that made his life in Jamaica fulfilling, from the food (“delicious and limitless”) to the weather, and most importantly, the people. Fleming wrote that the locals “will surprise and charm you,” which they often did during my time there.
But even in Fleming’s lifetime, Jamaica was evolving. By the time he wrote his final Bond novel, Golden Gun, in 1964, the island had gained independence from Britain, and Fleming’s nostalgia for the colonial era was 48)channeled into his spy. Waiting in the Kingston airport for a flight to 49)Havana, the secret agent recalls his “many assignments in Jamaica and many adventures on the island ... the oldest and most romantic of former British possessions.” As he reflected on his 50)escapades in Dr. No and his love affair with 51)Honeychile Rider, “James Bond smiled to himself,” Fleming wrote, “as the dusty pictures clicked across his brain.”